Thursday, 27 October 2011

10/28 Digital Photography School

     
    Digital Photography School    
   
Bob Holmes: Natural Lighting and Travel Photography Tips
October 25, 2011 at 3:05 PM
 

A photographer that I’ve long admired is award winning Bob Holmes who is a renowned travel photographer. Bob’s won many awards including Travel Photographer of the Year (3 times), has 46 books and has been featured in many major publications including National Geographic.

In the following video Marc Silber interviews Bob Holmes on the topic of Natural Lighting and travel photography – I hope you find it as insightful as I did.


Some key take away advice from Bob Holmes that I took away:

  • Learn to Look at Light – as the camera looks at it
  • The important thing about taking good photographs is not to be worried about it
  • Cameras get in the way of good photography – if you’re always adjusting your camera you’re not looking intensely enough at your subject
  • Even Bob occasionally forgets to check his ISO and shoots at the wrong level
  • Research is a big part of Bob’s travel photography. He travels as light as possible with just a few of lenses and DSLRs
  • ‘Seeing’ is the most important aspect of photography – most people look but don’t see. Equipment is secondary.
  • Composition – always scan the edges of your frame. Be aware of what you’re cropping out and including.
  • Photography is deceptively simple – keep shooting!

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Bob Holmes: Natural Lighting and Travel Photography Tips


   
   
Camera Therapy: How Photography Gave Me Hope Again
October 26, 2011 at 9:11 AM
 

The following is by a dPS reader – Shaun. It started as an email to me from him – however it was so powerful that I convinced him to allow us to publish it as a post. I hope that he might also one day let me convince him to share some of his photos too! Please Share this! – Darren

Shaun’s Story

In June of 2009 I was involved in a serious traffic accident that left me in a coma for several weeks and unable to walk or use my left arm. The list of injuries I have are longer than I can include here and so the last 2 years of my life have largely been spent for me in hospital or rehabilitation centres.

Much of my past life is a distant memory – things I used to take for granted and do without thinking take hours of effort to achieve, friendships have changed as I’ve become reliant upon others to survive and for a long time I lived without much hope. Depression became a state I lived in 24/7.

Camera Therapy

Around 6 months ago, and as part of my rehabilitation, my therapist suggested that I try to introduce something creative into my life. I think he was just trying to get me to think of something outside of my situation. He suggested painting but also mentioned in passing another patient who had taken up photography.

Being a techy guy (in my past life) I liked the idea of getting a camera and after a lot of research purchased a small four thirds format camera (a Panasonic GF1). I wanted a DSLR but due to their size and my limited movement (I do everything with one hand) I went for a lighter and smaller camera.

I also spent a heap of time on your website since buying the camera. I’ve not taken photos before but dPS has taught me a lot!

Over the last 6 months my life has changed a lot. Physically I’m improving a little – although still live life in a wheelchair and am very restricted in my movement – but emotionally I’m a different guy and much of it is a result of photography.

My Photographic Challenges

Pictured: Photographer using the 'Mount Mover'

There are a lot of challenges to take a simple photo for me. For example:

  • Getting to a location to photograph can be tough – I like street photography and landscapes and much of my life is confined to my small apartment or rehab centres.
  • Keeping my camera still – I ended up getting a small Tripod attachment welded by a friend to my wheelchair which has helped me a lot. Now my camera is in front of me any time I’m in my chair. I’ve since found purpose made mounts for wheelchairs and have just ordered one (the Mount Mover) – this will also enable me to consider a DSLR.
  • Just taking a shot – when I’m out with other photographers I notice that they are able to take a lot of shots from different angles and compositions that I’m not able to get.

How Photography Gives Me Hope

However despite the challenges photography has made me feel alive again. It has become a very therapeutic thing.

  • It gives me something to think about that is not related to my pain or injuries.
  • It gives me motivation to get well again.
  • It takes me out of sitting alone in my apartment.
  • It has given me dreams for the future.
  • It has given me a social interaction with other photographers (online and in real life).

My photos are not as technically brilliant as many of your authors – but that’s not what photography is about for me. For me it is a part of getting well and celebrating life, something I never thought I’d do again.

A Tip for Able Bodied Photographers

One ‘tip’ that I’d like to give other photographers is to ‘SLOW DOWN’. One of the bonuses of living my life is that nothing happens fast. As a result I see a lot more than I think many other photographers do. I also am forced to consider every element of my shot – composition, light, settings etc.

I see a lot of photographers racing around to get their shots. Not considering what they’re seeing and just snapping off a heap of shots very quickly and racing on to their next location. I suspect a lot of photographers could learn a great deal by slowing down.

If you have a story (big or small) about how photography has given you hope we’d LOVE to hear it in comments below.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Camera Therapy: How Photography Gave Me Hope Again


   
   
Create a collage in Gimp
October 26, 2011 at 2:21 PM
 

template_collage_in_gimp_opener.jpg

One task I perform regularly in Photoshop and Lightroom is to assemble multiple images on a single page for printing. I love displaying my photos, for example, as triptychs –which are three side by side images.

I’ve posted before on the process in Lightroom here and here and today I’ll show you how to do this in Gimp using a set of templates that you can find free for downloading on the web.

I downloaded my templates from http://www.gingerpixel.com/review/storyboard-templates. There are eight templates in all zipped into a single downloadable PSD file.

template_collage_in_gimp_1.jpg

Unzip the files and open the one to use in Gimp along with the images that you want to use. I'm using the Three_Rectangles.psd file.

template_collage_in_gimp_2.jpg

Start by viewing the template you are using and, in the Layers palette select and discard the top two layers which include the instructions.

template_collage_in_gimp_3.jpg

Select the first of your images, choose Select > All and then select > Edit > Copy to copy the image to the clipboard.

In the template click on the layer marked C and choose Edit > Paste as > New Layer. This pastes the image from the clipboard into the layer immediately above layer C.

Click the Move tool (set it to Layer) and drag the image over the top of the shape on the right. If desired, click the Scale tool and scale the image to size it larger than the black rectangle.

template_collage_in_gimp_4.jpg

Move the portion of the image that you're most interested in seeing over the shape.

Now, to crop the image to size, click layer C, right click and choose Alpha to Selection.

template_collage_in_gimp_5.jpg

Now select the Clipboard layer that you've been working on, choose Select > Invert and press Delete. The image will be clipped to size using the template shape as a guide to the size. Choose Select > None before continuing.

template_collage_in_gimp_6.jpg

Repeat this process for layers B and A – select and copy the image to use, click the layer you’re working with (B or A) and choose Edit > Paste As > New Layer.

Move the image into position and scale it if desired. When scaling, making sure to lock the width and height so that the image is scaled in proportion.

Right click the layer you’re working with – Layer B (or A) and choose Alpha To Selection. Click your newest clipboard layer and choose Select > Invert and then Delete.

When you are done you should have all 3 images in position.

template_collage_in_gimp_7.jpg

This image has a background layer behind the pictures which currently shows white. If you prefer to add a solid color behind everything, delete this layer and add a new layer filled with your choice of color. Here I’ve added a new black filled layer.

template_collage_in_gimp_8.jpg

You can finish off the design with some text or simply save the resulting image.

These storyboard templates are a good place to start with your picture layouts. You can find similar templates elsewhere on the web so start with a search for “Free Photoshop Clipping Mask Templates” or “Free Storyboard templates”.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Create a collage in Gimp


   
   
Levels: Getting the Professional 'Pop'
October 27, 2011 at 9:06 AM
 

One of the more popular tutorials that has been written and shared in the dPS forums was the following one from one of our members – LeeR on ‘Levels’. While written last year it continues to be popular with readers so I thought I’d reshare it here on the blog.

One of the questions I see most frequently on DPS is “How can I give my images that professional ‘pop?’” The truth is, pros have a whole bag of tricks for setting themselves apart from the pack and, like your auto mechanic, they use different techniques for different situations. However, there are some things that are common to most images, like getting the exposure and focus right, cropping and sharpening. I hear about these things all the time in this forum, but rarely hear about one of my favorite tools; “Levels” and that’s unfortunate, because I would estimate that fully 90% of the images I see posted here would benefit from a Levels adjustment. No, it won’t make you a pro, but it will be a big step in the right direction. Here, very briefly, is how I was taught to do it:

(Note; I am going to describe this process using PS, but I assure you, both Elements and GIMP work the same way with only very minor variations.)

levels.jpeg

First, make a copy of your image. You’re going to want to have the original just in case, though I don’t think you will need it. Click on Image/ Adjustments/Levels or Crtl ‘L’ in PS to pull up the levels adjustment tool. Here you will find a graph that looks a lot like a histogram and for good reason: it is a histogram. All of the values, light to dark, are represented in this graph. Beneath the graph you will see three sliders, one black, one white and one gray. These represent the white value, the black value and the ‘gamma’ or overall lightness of your image. Don’t touch these yet.

You should also see three eyedroppers with the same shades in them; white gray, black. These are wonderful little tools that allow you to assign values to your image. Click on the white eyedropper and move it over to the lightest part of your image. If you have clouds, try to find the whitest part of the whitest cloud. Move the eyedropper to that spot and click. You may notice a change in your image. Great, but don’t worry if you don’t. Next, do the same with the with the black eyedropper. Did you see a change? Keep going.

The gray is a bit tougher. You do not have to find middle gray, but you do need to find a neutral gray. I usually look for something I know to be white, but is gray in the image because it is in shade. The bottom side of a cloud works great or the wrinkles in a white shirt; just click on that area. This is usually the gray dropper where you see the biggest color shift, and for a reason: You have just corrected the white balance in your image, and, if you have done it right, removed any color cast. But that’s not all. Look at your histogram. It may look a bit funky with white gaps and tall black lines, but you have spread the tonality across the gamut of the graph. If your values were mostly in the lower register, you will not see that they are spread throughout, thus taking full advantage of the tonality available. This is also as accurate as this image can be given the exposure when it was taken.

levels-2.jpeg

Now, one last adjustment before you close the levels menu. Take the little gray slider in the middle of the graph and slide it up and down a bit. You will notice the image getting lighter and darker. Find the spot where things really ‘pop.’

There you go. In most cases you will find you have a remarkably improved image. Click off the layer you just made and look at the before image. Look better? I’ll bet it does. However, that does not mean you have to stay here, take this in whatever direction you choose, just know that you are starting with a very accurate image.

Finally, don’t stop with this quick and dirty method for settings ‘Levels’; there is much more to be learned, and gained. I highly recommend you check out this site where Scott Kelby goes into more details on this method along with his remarkable trick for finding middle gray. Plus, if you scan up on the site you will learn the method for setting the white, black and gray points in the image just like the pros do.

Final image:

levels-final.jpeg

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Levels: Getting the Professional ‘Pop’


   
   
Halloween Photography Tips
October 27, 2011 at 10:01 AM
 

With Halloween just a few days away I thought it was time to update our Halloween Photography Tips article with some new information and photos.

Photography Tips to Keep in Mind for Halloween

There are plenty of subjects around to photograph at Halloween ranging from the traditional jack-o-lantern through to people in costume, to trick or treat ‘treats’ etc. It’s a time of color, emotion and lots of interesting subjects.

The keys to capturing them are not that different from the normal keys to good composition in photography. As you photograph Halloween this year keep in mind some of the basics of good digital photography. I’ve selected the following tutorials that we’ve written before that should be helpful in your Halloween photography:

Get more tips like this by Subscribing to Digital Photography School

Find Points of Interest

Before hitting the shutter ask yourself ‘what is the focal point (or point of interest) in this image?’ All good images have something in them that holds the attention of those who view them – learn more about focal points and how to enhance them here.

Rule of Thirds

One way of enhancing the composition of your shots is to place your points of interest inn smart positions. While the rule of thirds can be broken with great effect it’s a useful principle to keep in mind.

Fill Your Frame

Halloween is a time of drama and you can add to this in your images by getting in nice and close and filling the frame with your subjects. Whether it’s people or objects – getting in nice and tight will usually add punch to your shots.


Give Subjects Space to Look into

When photographing people one of the most effective compositional techniques is to use the space around their faces effectively by giving more room on the side of their face that they’re looking into.

Find Fresh Angles

I suspect that the day after Halloween that photo sharing websites will be filled with images of pumpkins that all look much the same. Make your images stand out by finding fresh perspectives to shoot from.

Photograph the Details

It’s easy to be distracted by the flashy parts of a time like Halloween but it’s often when you step back, take a look around and notice the smaller details that you find the ‘money shots’. Times like Halloween are filled with all kinds of smaller details and photo worthy moments including decorations, carving the pumpkin, people getting dressed in costumes, sleeping kids at the end of parties, bags full of treats at the end of the night, the ‘fangs’ in Aunt Marie’s mouth, before and after shots of parties, close ups of food etc

Group Photos

Halloween is a time that people gather together and it’s an ideal time to practice your group photo techniques.

Image by John Althouse Cohen

Candid Photography

Halloween parties are a great time to get your camera out for some candid photos of your friends and family having a great time dressed up in all manner of costumes. Check out these 11 candid photography techniques.

Shooting in Low Light

The type of images that come to mind when I think of Halloween are fairly dark and spooky ones – candles in pumpkins etc. After all, the real action of Halloween seems to happen after dark. As a result you’ll want to think carefully about the light sources for your shots.

To really capture the mood of these situations you’ll want to avoid the stark and bright light of flash photography (or will want to at least pull it back a few stops and diffuse it) and so you’ll need to switch off your flash and do one (or all) of three things to some extent (this is from our exposure triangle series of posts):

  • increase your ISO – the larger your number the more sensitive your image sensor is to light and the darker conditions you can shoot in without having to slow down shutter speed. On the downside you’ll get more grainy/noisey shots.
  • slow down shutter speed – choosing a longer shutter speed lets more light into your camera. On the downside you’ll see any movement in your shots blur (which might add to the spookiness of the image but could also ruin it). Consider using a tripod if you lengthen your shutter speed.
  • use a larger Aperture – this widens the hole in your lens and lets more available light in. It will also lessen the depth of field in your shots. If you have a DSLR with a few different lenses is to use the ‘fastest’ lens you own as it will let you choose larger apertures. For example my f1.4 lens handles low light much better than my f4 lens.

Diffuse Your Flash

Another strategy that I’ve heard of some readers doing at this time of year is diffusing the flash on your camera with colored cellophane to try to lesson its impact upon your shot and also to give the light it produces a glow that might add to your shots – Red might be a good color to try. You’ll probably want to test this before the big night as getting the right density of diffuser will be critical.

Jack-o-Lanterns

Photographing Jack-o-Lanterns is particularly tricky as to get the full effect of the glowing inside the pumpkin is a bit of a tightrope walk between overexposing and underexposing due to the light and dark patches in the shot you take. Instead of just one candle inside it is probably worth using two or three to give a little extra light. Also take a number of shots at different exposures (exposure bracketing) and you should get one or two that give you the impact you’re after.

Got some Halloween Photos to Share? Post them we’d love to see them over at our Forum.

PS: here’s one more shot from one of our forum members who has submitted some amazing pumpkin carving photographs here:

Halloween-Photography-Tips-2

Get more tips like this by Subscribing to Digital Photography School

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Halloween Photography Tips


   
   
Introducting the 'Quick Clicks' Lightroom Preset Collection from MCP Actions ($30 Off Today)
October 27, 2011 at 7:07 PM
 

Over the last week I’ve had the opportunity to try out the latest Lightroom Preset collection from MCP Actions. It’s a collection of over 200 actions/presets.

It’s called ‘the MCP Quick Clicks Collection‘ and its on on special until the end of the month (introductory price ends on October 31).

Available either for RAW or JPEG photographers – this collection of presets is particularly useful for portrait photographers (which is what I major on).

The cool thing about this collection is that Jodi has arranged it all into 5 folders which helps you find them (and you can minimise each section when you’re not using it).

mcp-lightroom-presets.jpeg

The sections are:

  • Building Blocks fine-tune photos' exposure and color settings, providing a flawless foundation for layering on additional looks.
  • Quick Clicks Color presets give one-click access to gorgeous color-enhancing results.
  • Quick Clicks Black & White presets include a full range of monochrome looks plus a menu of selective color tints and options.
  • Finishing Enhancers help make photos pop with effects ranging from fill flash to customizable vignettes.
  • Quick Clicks Customizers allow users to save favorite combinations and reapply them any time with a single click.

Presets are not for everyone by any means – some photographers prefer to create their own post production techniques from scratch – however if you’re new to Lightroom or are pushed for time and want to tap into the knowledge of others who’ve created hundreds of great post production techniques – this is an ideal collection to check out.< ?p>

If you’re not sure – there’s an option to get a free ‘Mini Clicks’ package to give you a taste.

Get more information on the MCP Quick Clicks Collection here.

The price for the collection is $149.99 until October 31 when it’ll revert back to $179.99.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Introducting the ‘Quick Clicks’ Lightroom Preset Collection from MCP Actions ($30 Off Today)


   
     
 
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